Numerical modelling of bathymetric variability

This article presents a numerical model for predicting bathymetric changes under the influence of wave action. The model takes into consideration the changes in N-Contour lines due to both longshore and onshore-offshore sediment transport. The model consists of three main submodels namely; a backrefraction model to establish the deep water conditions of the wave field, the wave transformation model due to varying topography and presence of coastal structures, and the sediment transport and changes of bottom topography model. The model has been applied for a specific situation and the main conclusions are that it produces the general features of erosion and deposition along the coast. (A)